Interlock Knitting Machine Tutorial by Emdad Sarkar ( Bangladesh Univer...

Modular Production System | Toyota Sewing System | Cellular Garment Manufacturing System

Modular Production System | Toyota Sewing System | Cellular Garment Manufacturing System

Modular production system involves a group of four to seventeen people who set their own standards and work together to produce a finished garment. They work as a team or module and each team member works on more than one operation. In this system, operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and the team is fully responsible for production and quality. The number of teams in a plant varies with the need of the industry, size of the industry and product line in garments.  This system MPS is the perfect solution for the apparel manufacturer where quick response is needed. This system is also popular as a Cellular Garment Manufacturing, flexible work groups or Toyota Sewing System (TSS).

Features of a Modular Production System

  Usually U-shaped layout with more workplaces than operators.

 Required multi-skilled workers and a small set of machines to produce a finished garment.

 Each operator performs approximately 2-4 operations, depending on the product.

 The work flow is sequential.

 WIP is less and productivity is high in this production system

 The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate in different sewing machines to complete the operations.

 Pull-type production systems, in which the job order arrives from the last step to previous steps

 Time spent per garment is also little; e.g. T-shirt 3 mins, Pull-on pants 6 mins., unstructured jacket 25 mins., lined blazer 40 mins., tailored coat 120 mins.

 

Advantage

 MPS leads to cost savings.

 The system is highly flexible with style changes and permits better line balancing.

 Enables fast throughput time, lower WIP, and small batch size can be achieved.

 Peer pressure encourages a team spirit and discourages absenteeism.

 Productivity of human labour

 Reducing supplies of unfinished production

 Required less floor space

 Improved quality of product

Disadvantages

 High capital investment is needed in initial training workers to deal with several tasks at one station.

 This system requires a higher degree of communication and cooperation among operators, mechanics, and supervisors.

 Operators cannot develop the rhythm and pace of high performance.

 No harmony between team members can cause problems, thus loss in production.

 Depend on the Team for whole Production.

Applications:

 Fashioned garments with quick response.

 Orders with low volume and frequent changes.

 Company with mutual trust between management and operators.

(2)

Modular Production System | Toyota Sewing System | Cellular Garment Manufacturing System

Acid wash | Random wash | Acid Wash by Stones

Acid wash / Random wash

At present times, the most popular denim garments are random washed among the fashionable people. When solid washed the fading, effects are even and uniform in the garments but when random washed effects are uneven.

                                       

The first step of acid wash is rinse if needed then desized by enzyme (alpha amylase ) or by  desizing chemicals according to the fabric of the garment. Then wash by cellulosic enzymes if needed to bring abrasion effects. After that random wash procedures starts by making potassium per manganate (KMnO₄)or bleach ( NaOCl ) solution with required amount of water or phosphorous acid and uneven effect making elements like stones, balls, towels and thermopols. To bring random effects on garments must be wet so the garments should be hydro extracted before throwing to the belly machine.

Various types of effects can be produced by following elements are given below:

1. Pumice Stones: Makes small fading effects like drop of pin point on the surface of the garments.


2. Balls: circular and small line fading effects


3. Towels: big uneven fading effect like sweeping randomly


4. Thermopols: Random sized fading effect sometimes looks like lengthwise fading

 Acid Wash by Stones :

At first pumice stones must be soaked by solution of strong oxidizing agents like sodium hypochlorite ( 5-10% ) (NaOCl) or potassium permanganate (KMnO4) (3-6% ). Excess liquor is removed from the stones. Certain amount of treated stones and garments is dry tumbled in the belly washing machine to bring the desired random effects on the garments is called acid washing or snow washing or ice washing,

Stones can be treated by two ways like –

      1. Stones are taken into a net or mesh fabric and soaked into the solution then dried on air.

       2. An excess piece of fabric is placed into the belly machine, then stones are gathered on the fabric and the solution is sprayed on those stones and run the machine for 2-3 mins by tumbling to remove excess solution and also to mix them properly.

The soaked stones and wetted garments are loaded into the belly machine. According to the desired fading effect, the machine is tumbled 2-10 mins. The degree of color fading depends on the stone ratio, concentration of the chemicals, types of garments and dyestuff’s.  After getting the desired effect, the garments are loaded on another machine for rinse for 3-4 mins. As KMnO4 or NaOCl are hazardous chemical so neutralization is mandatory for further processing. If KMnO₄ is used then MnO₂ is formed which leads to brown / orange tone and must be removed by oxalic acid and if NaOCl is used then a reducing agent like sodium bisulphite is used for neutralization. Finally the garment treated with softener, hydro extracted and dried by dryer.

Acid wash | Random wash | Acid Wash by Stones

Acid wash | Random wash | Acid Wash by Stones

Systems of Yarn Count Measurement

Systems of Yarn Count Measurement

What is count/yarn count ?

Count or yarn count is a numerical expression which indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn. In other words, yarn count is a number indicating the mass per unit lengh or the length per unit mass of the yarn.

There are mainly two systems or ways of yarn count measurement, these are :

(a)  Indirect System / Fixed weight system          

( length per unit mass )

(b)  Direct system / Fixed length system

( mass per unit length )

 

Indirect system of yarn count measurement

The indirect system or fixed weight system is the yarn count system where the count of a yarn is calculated by measuring the length of a fixed / definite mass.

In this system, the count of yarn is the number of length units in one weight unit. So, the count number indicates the length per unit mass of the yarn. That is why, higher the count, finer the yarn. In indirect count system, the mass of yarn is fixed and the length of yarn varies according to its fineness. 

This system is widely used for measuring count of cotton yarns.

The following formula is used to calculate yarn count in indirect system :

  N   =   (L × w) / ( l × W)

Where,  N  =  yarn count

               L  =  the length of the sample

               w  =  ” unit of weight ” of the system

               W  =  the weight of the sample

                l   =   ” unit of length ” of the system

Some of the most commonly used indirect systems include : English cotton count (N_e) system, Metric count (N_m) system,  Worsted count (N_eK) system & Woollen count system. These systems are described below : 

English cotton count (N_e) :

In this system, yarn count is defined as the number of hanks of 840 yards per pound.

For example, yarn count 30 N_e means that there are 30 hanks (each hank consisting of 840 yards of yarn) per 1 lb or 1 pound of that yarn (length per mass) . In other words, if a yarn has a count of 30 N_e , it means that 30 hanks (of 840 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1 pound.

Note :  

• If (30×840) or, 25200 yards of a yarn weigh 1 pound then the yarn count will be 30 N_e


• N_e count is also expressed with ’s . (e.g. 50’s cotton yarn)

Metric Cotton Count (N_m) :

In Metric cotton count system, yarn count is defined as the number of hanks of 1000 m per 1 kilogram of that yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 N_m means that there are 30 hanks of 1000 m per 1 kilogram (kg) of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 N_m means 30 hanks (each hank consisting of 1000m) of that yarn will weigh 1 kg.

Worsted Count (N_eK) :

It is defined as the number of hanks of 560 yards per 1 pound of that yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 N_eK means that there are 30 hanks of 560 yards per one pound (1 lb) of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 NeK means 30 hanks (each hank consisting of 560 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1lb.

Woollen Count :

In this system, yarn count is defined as the number of hanks of 256 yards per pound.

For example, woollen yarn count 30 means that there are 30 hanks (of 256 yards)  per 1 lb or 1 pound of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 Ne means 30 hanks (each hank consisting of 256 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1 pound.

 

These indirect yarn count systems can be expressed briefly in the chart below :

Indirect yarn count system  

[table id=14 /]
  Direct system of yarn count measurement 

The direct system or fixed length system is the yarn count system where the count of a yarn is calculated by measuring the mass of a fixed / definite length. 

In this system, the count of yarn is the number of weight units per length unit. Here, the count number indicates the mass per unit length. So, higher the count, coarser the yarn. In direct count system, the length of yarn is fixed and the mass of yarn varies according to its fineness. 

This system is commonly used for polyester, nylon, silk, acrylic & jute yarn.

The following formula is used to calculate yarn count in direct system :

  N   =  ( l × W)  /  L

Where,  N  =  yarn count

              L  =  the length of the sample

              W  =  the weight of the sample

               l   =   ” unit of length ” of the system

Some of the most commonly used direct systems include :

Tex, Denier, Pounds per Spyndle, DeciTex  (dtex) MilliTex  (mtex) KilloTex  (ktex)

Tex :

The yarn number or count in Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 Tex means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 1000 m or 1 km of that yarn (mass per length) . In other words, yarn count 30 Tex means 1000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 gm.

Denier :

The yarn number or count in Denier system is the weight in grams of 9000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 Denier means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 9000 m or 9 km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 Denier means that 9000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 gm.

Pound per Spyndle / Jute count :

The yarn number or count in Pound per Spyndle system is the weight in pounds of 14,400 yards of yarn.

For example, yarn count 20 Pound per Spyndle means that there are 20 lbs of yarn per 14400 m yards of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 20 Pounds per Spyndle means that 14400 m of that yarn will weigh 20 lbs.

deciTex (dTex) :

The yarn number or count in deciTex system is the weight in grams of 10,000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 deciTex means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 10,000 m or 10 km of that yarn (mass per length). In other words, yarn count 30 dTex means 10,000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 gm.

miliTex (mTex) :

The yarn number or count in miliTex system is the weight in milligrams of 1000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 miliTex means that there are 30 milligrams of yarn per 1000 m or 1 km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 mTex means that 1000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 milligrams.

kiloTex (kTex) :

The yarn number or count in kiloTex system is the weight in kilograms of 1000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 kiloTex means that there are 30 kilograms of yarn per 1000 m or 1 km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 kTex means 1000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 kilograms.

These direct yarn count systems can be expressed briefly in the chart below  :

 Direct yarn count system

[table id=15 /]

Systems of Yarn Count Measurement

 

Systems of Yarn Count Measurement

Textile Printing | Feature of Textile Printing | Process flowchart of textile printing

 Textile Printing

The word of “printing” has derived from a Latin word which means “pressing “. It implies a process that uses pressure. Textile printing is one kind of localized dyeing where dyes or pigments & chemical applied by any method which can produce a particular effect of color on fabric according to design. In a word, Applying colored patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is called ‘Printing’. In a proper printed fabric, the color is affixed to the fiber or fibre surface (pigment) so that it may not be affected by washing and friction or any other means. It’s a combination of art, engineering & dyeing.

Feature of Printing:

       Printing is applied in form of design or pattern. Single or multi color can be applied.

        A special type of viscous liquid is used to hold the dye/pigment & chemical which is called ‘Print paste’.

        High viscosity of print paste helps dye to adhere to surface of fibre. But the fixation is done by applying steam which is called ‘curing’

         For dyeing low viscous or aqueous medium is used but printing is done in wet viscous medium.

         The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol (azoic) and disperse dyes which have good fastness properties.

         The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing. About 96% is done by pigment. These colors are fixed to the fiber through binder.

Alternative process of textile printing :

There are some alternative processes for applying colorful design on fabric. But printing is the cheapest process that’s why it is widely used. The other processes are……..

         By dyed yarn in form of woven fabric.

         Embroidery

         Knitted with colored yarn.

         Appliqué etc.

Difference between Dyeing and Printing : 

[table id=16 /]

Process flowchart of textile printing:

Fabric preparation

Preparation of printing device (block/flat or rotary screen, roller)

Printing paste preparation

Impress on fabric

Drying the printed fabric

Fixation by curing

Washing & soaping

Finally dry

Delivery

Different styles / techniques of printing:

       Direct style

       Resist style

       Discharge style

       Special style

Some special printing style…..

                Flock style

                Dyed style

                burnt out style

                blotch printing

                air brush ( spray) printing

                photo printing

                batik / tie dye etc.

 

Textile Printing | Feature of Textile Printing | Process flowchart of textile printing

TEXTILE BOOKS FREE DONWLOAD

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We will give you any of the 2 books from the below list if you fulfill our conditions.

If you want to download this book , you need to write an unique article about textile related topics.

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Books on Fibre / Yarn / Spinning / Testing

1. A Practical Guide to Fibre Science    Preview


2. A Practical Guide to Quality Management in Spinning Preview


3. A Practical Guide to Textile Testing Preview


4. A Technical Handbook on Bituminized Jute Paving Fabric Preview


5. Advanced Fiber Spinning Technology Preview


6. Advances in Filament Yarn Spinning of Textiles and Polymers Preview


7. Advances in Silk Science and Technology Preview


8. Advances in Wool Technology Preview


9. Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology Preview


10. Bast and Other Plant Fibres Preview


11. Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres Preview


12. Cotton Fiber Chemistry and Technology Preview


13. Cotton Science and Technology Preview


14. Engineering techniques of ring spinning Preview


15. False twist textured yarns_ Principles, process and applications Preview


16. Fancy Yarns Their Manufacture and Application Preview


17. Fatigue Failure of Textile Fibres Preview


18. Fibre Structure Preview


19. Friction in Textile Materials Preview


20. Fundamentals of Fiber Science Preview


21. Fundamentals of yarn winding Preview


22. Handbook of fibre rope technology Preview


23. Handbook of natural fibres_ Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation (vol:1) Preview


24. Handbook of natural fibres_ Processing and applications (Volume 2) Preview


25. Handbook of Textile Fibre Structure (Volume 1) Preview


26. Handbook of Textile Fibre Structure (Volume 2) Preview


27. Handbook of Textile Fibres. Volume 1 Natural Fibres Preview


28. Handbook of Textile Fibres. Volume 2 Man-Made Fibres Preview


29. Handbook of Textile Testing and Quality Control Preview


30. Handbook on cotton spinning industry Preview


31. Handbook of Worsted Wool and Blended Preview


32. Handbook of Yarn Production Technology, science and economics Preview


33. Identification of Textile Fibers Preview


34. Mechanics of fiber and textile reinforced cement composites Preview


35. Modern Approach to Maintenance in Spinning Preview


36. Physical Properties of Textile Fibres Preview


37. Physical Testing of Textiles Preview


38. Polyesters and polyamides Preview


39. Polyolefin Fibres Industrial and Medical Applications Preview


40. Process control and yarn quality in spinning Preview


41. Process Management in Spinning Preview


42. Reference Book of Textile Technology_Man Made Fibers Preview


43. Reference Book of Textile Technology_Spinning Preview


44. Regenerated_Cellulose_Fibres Preview


45. Role of yarn tension in weaving Preview


46. Smart composite coating and membranes Preview


47. Silk, Mohair, Cashmere and Other luxury fibres Preview


48. Silk, Processing, Properties and Applications Preview


49. Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures-Developments and Applications Preview


50. Synthetic fibres_ Nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin Preview


51. Technical Textiles Yarns Industrial and medical applications Preview


52. Textile mechanisms in spinning and weaving machines Preview


53. Textile Spinning, Weaving and Desizing Preview


54. The chemistry of textile fibres Preview


55. Wool Science and Technology Preview


56. Woollen and Worsted Woven Fabric Design Preview


57. Yarn Technology Preview


58. Yarn Texturing Technology Preview

Books on  Fabric / Knitting / Weaving / Non-woven  

1. Advances in Knitting Technology Preview


2. Advances in Technical Nonwovens Preview


3. Advances in Woven Fabrics Technologies Preview


4. Analysis of Woven Fabrics Preview


5. Applications of Nonwovens in Technical textile Preview


6. Braided structures and composites_production, properties, mechanics, and technical applications Preview


7. Braiding technology for textiles Preview


8. Circular Knitting Preview


9. Composite nonwoven materials_ Structure, properties and applications Preview


10. Composites Forming Technologies Preview


11. Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand Preview


12. Fabric dyer’s dictionary Preview


13. Fabric Structure and Design Preview


14. Fabric Testing Preview


15. Fabric Structures in Architecture Preview


16. Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology Preview


17. Geosystems_ Design Rules and Applications Preview


18. Handbook of Advances in Braided Composite Materials_ Theory, Product Preview


19. Handbook of textile design_Principles, processes and practice Preview


20. Handbook of nonwovens Preview


21. Handbook of Weaving Preview


22. Industrial practices in weaving preparatory Preview


23. Industrial practices in weaving preparatory Preview


24. Innovative jacquard textile design using digital technologies Preview


25. Interior Textiles Design and Development Preview


26. Knitting Technology Preview


27. Mechanisms of flat weaving technology Preview


28. Nanofibers and Nanotechnology in textile Preview


29. Nonwoven fabrics Preview


30. Performance of Home Textiles Preview


31. Principles of Fabric Formation Preview


32. Reference Book of Textile Technology Knitting Preview


33. Reference Book of Textile Technology Nonwovens Preview


34. Reference Book of Textile Technology Weaving Preview


35. Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structurs-Developments and Applications Preview


36. Structure and Mechanics of Woven Fabrics Preview


37. Textile Design-Principles, advances and applications Preview


38. Textile mechanisms in spinning and weaving machines Preview


39. Textile Spinning, Weaving and Desizing Preview


40. Visual Texture on Fabric Create Stunning Art Cloth with Water Preview


41. Watson’s Advanced Textile Design. Compound Woven Structures Preview


42. Watson’s Textile Design and Colour_ Elementary Weaves and Figured Fabrics Preview


43. Weaving Preparation Technology Preview


44. Weaving_Conversion_of_Yarn to fabric Preview


45. Woollen and Worsted Woven Fabric Design Preview


46. Woven fabric structure design and product planning Preview


47. Woven Terry Fabrics_ Manufacturing and Quality Management Preview


48. Woven Textile Structure_ Theory and Applications Preview


49. Woven Textile Structure_Theory and Applications Preview


50. Woven textiles_ Principles, technologies and applications Preview


51. Wowen fabric Engineering Preview

Books on Wet Processing / Dyeing / Finishing / Printing 

1. Advances in the dyeing and finishing of technical textiles


2. Advances in Treating Textile


3. Basic Principles of Textile Coloration


4. Characterization and Treatment of Textile Wastewater


5. Chemical finishing of textiles


6. Chemical_Testing_of_Textiles


7. Chemistry of the Textiles Industry


8. Coated_and_Laminated_Textiles-


9. Colour Design Theories and Applications 


10. Colour measurement Principles, advances,and industrial applications


11. Colour_Management_in_Textiles


12. Digital_Printing_of_Textiles


13. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres


14. Environmental_Aspects_of_Textile_Dyeing


15. Experiments in Textile and Fibre Chemistry


16. Functional finishes for textiles _ improving comfort, performance and protection


17. Fundamentals and Practices in Colouration of Textiles


18. Handbook of Detergents__Part D-Formulation


19. Handbook of natural dyes and pigments


20. Handbook_of_Textile_and_Industrial


21. Handbook_of_Textile_and_Industrial


22. Ink Jet Textile Printing


23. Natural Dyes


24. Physico-chemical Aspects of Textile Coloration


25. Principles of colour and appearance measurement_ Object appearance, colour perception and instrumental measurement. Volume 1


26. Principles of Colour and Appearance Measurement_ Volume 2_ Visual Measurement of Colour, Colour Comparison and Management


27. Reference Book of Textile Technology _Finishing


28. Simulation and Control of the Dyeing Process-


29. Simulation in textile technology_ Theory and applications


30. Textile Application of the Color Sensitivity of Dye Mixtures


31. Textile dyes


32. Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes and Process_A Concise Guide


33. Textile finishing chemicals an Industrial Guide


34. Textile Printing


35. Textile Wastewater Treatment


36. Textile_dyes


37. Textile_Processing with Enzyme


38. Textiles and environment

Books on Apparel / Garments Production / Industrial Engineering / Sewing / Merchandizing / Washing / Garments Dyeing 

1. Advances in apparel production


2. Advances in Women’s Intimate Apparel Technology


3. Anthropometry, apparel sizing and design


4. Apparel Manufacturing Technology


5. Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture


6. Clothing Appearance and Fit Science and Technology


7. Clothing Biosensory Engineering


8. Clothing for Children and Teenagers. Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit


9. Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel


10. Denim_ Manufacture, Finishing and Applications


11. Design of clothing manufacturing processes_ A systematic approach to planning, scheduling and control


12. Designing apparel for consumers _ the impact of body shape and size


13. Dress Behind Bars_ Prison Clothing as Criminality


14. Engineering apparel fabrics and garments


15. Ergonomics in the garment industry


16. ERP for Textiles and Apparel Industry


17. Garment Manufacturing Technology


18. Handbook of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Textiles and Clothing


19. Handbook of Sustainable Apparel Production


20. How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns


21. Improving Comfort in Clothing Engineering


22. Industrial cutting of textile materials


23. Industrial engineering in apparel production


24. Information Systems for the Fashion and Apparel Industry


25. Innovation and technology of women’s intimate apparel


26. Introduction to nonwovens technology


27. Joining Textiles Principles and Applications


28. Making Sweatshops_ The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry


29. Management of Technology Systems in the Garment Industry


30. Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear


31. Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear


32. Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD_ How to use Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software


33. Product safety and restricted substance in apparel


34. Quality Characterisation of Apparel


35. Retail Product Management_Buying and Merchandising


36. Science in Clothing Comfort


37. Scientific Protocols for Forensic Examination of Clothing


38. Sizing in Clothing- Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready‐to‐wear Clothing


39. Solutions to problems in the textile and garment industry


40. Statistics for textiles and apparel management


41. Strategic management in garment industry


42. Surface_Modification_of_Textiles


43. Sustainable Apparel Production_processing and recycling


44. The Apparel Industry


45. The dirty side of the garment industry _ fast fashion and its negative impact on environment and society


46. Virtual Clothing_ Theory and Practice


47. Visual Merchandising_ Windows and in-store displays for retail


48. Zara and her Sisters_The Story of the World’s Largest Clothing Retailer

Books on Fashion Design / Visual Merchandizing / Product Development 

1. Basics Fashion Design 02 Textiles and Fashion 


2. Career in Textile and Fashion Designing


3. Clothing & Fashion


4. Clothing_Fashion,Fabrics and Construction


5. Fashion Designing and Sewing Technology


6. Fashion Merchandising


7. Fashion Retail Supply Chain Management_ A Systems Optimization Approach


8. Fashion Supply Chain Management


9. Fashion Supply Chain Management Using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technologies-


10. Figure Drawing for Fashion Design


11. Information Systems for the Fashion and Apparel Industry-


12. Patternmaking for Fashion Design


13. Sewing for Fashion Designers

Books on Textile Management / Quality Control 

1. Effective Implementation of Quality Management Systems


2. Humidification and Ventilation Management in Textile Industry


3. Lean Six Sigma for Engineers and Managers_ With Applied Case Studies


4. Management of Technology Systems in the Garment Industry


5. Quality Characterisation of Apparel


6. Solutions to problems in the textile and garment industry


7. Strategic management in garment industry


8. Textile Processes_ Quality Control and Design of Experiments


9. The Fundamentals of Production Planning and Control


10. The fundamentals of quality assurance in the textile industry


11. Work quality management in the textile industry

All in One 

1. 3-D Fibrous Assemblies_ Properties, Applications and Modelling of Three-Dimensional Textile Structures


2. A Novel Green Treatment for Textiles_ Plasma Treatment as a Sustainable Technology


3. Coated Textiles_Principles and Applications


4. Denim_ Manufacture, Finishing and Applications-


5. Dictionary of Textile Finishing. Deutsch_englisch, English_german


6. Engineering Textiles-Integrating the design and manufacture of textile products


7. Environmental Impact of Textiles. Production, Processes and Protection


8. Handbook of Sustainable Textile Production


9. Handbook of Worsted Wool and Blended Suiting Process


10. Know all about clothing Technology


11. Mechanics and calculations of textile machinery


12. Modern Textile Technology


13. Process control in textile manufacturing


14. Surface Characteristics of Fibers and Textiles


15. Sustainable Textiles_ Life Cycle and Environmental Impact


16. Textile Engineering


17. Textile Mathematics_Part I


18. Textile Sizing-


19. Textile_Mathematics_Part II


20. Textiles for Industrial Applications


21. Textiles_ Types, Uses and Production Methods


22. Textiles_and_Fashion


23. The World Trade Organization and International Denim Trading


24. The_China_and_Hong_Kong denim industry


25. Training and Development of Technical Staff in the Textile Industry


26. Training_and_development of technical staff in textile industry-


27. Tufted Carpet_Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes and Processes

Advanced Textile Books

1. Advanced fibrous composite materials for ballistic protection


2. Absorbent_Technology


3. Activated Carbon Fiber and Textiles


4. Adaptive AND FUNCTIONAL POLYMERS, TEXTILES AND THEIR


5. Advanced fibrous composite materials for ballistic protection


6. Advanced Textiles for Wound Care


7. Advances in 3D textiles


8. Advances in Carpet Manufacture


9. Advances in Fire Retardant Materials


10. Advances in military textiles and personal equipment


11. Advances in Polymer Coated Textiles


12. Advances in shape memory polymers


13. Advances in smart medical textiles


14. Advances in Textile Biotechnology-


15. Advances in textile engineering


16. Analytical Electrochemistry in Textiles


17. Antimicrobial Textiles


18. Apparel machinery and equipments


19. Biofunctional Textiles and the Skin


20. Biologically Inspired Textiles


21. Biomechanical Engineering of Textiles and Clothing


22. Biomedical Textiles for Orthopaedic and Surgical Applications


23. Bioprocessing of Textiles


24. Biotextiles as medical implants


25. Chemical Protective Clothing


26. Design and Manufacture of Textile Composites


27. Development of Nanotechnology in Textiles


28. Ecotextiles_


29. Electronic Textiles_ Smart Fabrics and Wearable Technology


30. Electronics and Computing in Textiles


31. Electronics in textiles and clothing _ design, products and applications


32. Electrospinning of Nanofibers in Textiles


33. Electrospun Nanofibers


34. Engineering textiles _ research methodologies, concepts, and modern applications


35. Fibrous and composite materials for civil engineering applications


36. Functional nanofibers and their applications


37. Functional Textiles for Improved Performance, Protection and Health


38. Geotextiles_ From Design to Applications


39. Global Denim


40. Handbook of fire resistant textiles


41. Handbook of Medical Textiles


42. Handbook of Technical Textiles, Volume 1 _ Technical Textile Processes


43. Handbook of Technical Textiles, Volume 2_Technical Textile Applications


44. Handbook of Tensile Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres


45. High performance textiles and their applications-


46. Materials and technology for sportswear and performance apparel


47. Materials in Sports Equipment- Volume 1


48. Materials in Sports Equipment Volume 2


49. Medical and heaithcare textiles-


50. Medical Textile Materials


51. Medical textiles and biomaterials for healthcare


52. Medical_Textiles


53. Military_Textiles


54. Modelling and Predicting Textile Behaviour


55. Modern textile characterization methods


56. Multidisciplinary know-how for smart textiles developers


57. Multiscale materials modelling


58. Nanostructured polymer blends and composites in textiles


59. New millennium fibers


60. New Product Development in Textiles_ Innovation and Production


61. Novel Fire Retardant Polymers and Composite Materials


62. Smart bandage technologies_ design and application


63. Smart Clothing_Technology and Applications


64. Smart Textiles and their Applications


65. Smart Textiles for Designers_ Inventing the Future of Fabrics


66. Smart textiles for protection-


67. Smart_Clothes_and_Wearable-


68. Smart_Fibres,_Fabrics_and_Clothing


69. Smart_Textile_Coatings_and_Laminates


70. Smart_Textiles_for_Medicine_an healthcare


71. Soft Computing in Textile Engineering


72. Structure and Properties of High-Performance Fibers


73. Textile advances in the automotive industry


74. Textile-led Design for the Active Ageing Population


75. Textiles and human thermophysiological comfort in the indoor environment


76. Textiles for Sportswear-


77. Textiles in automotive engineering-


78. Textiles, polymers and composites for buildings


79. Textiles_for_Cold_Weather_Apparel


80. Textiles_for_Hygiene_and_Infection control


81. Textiles_for_Protection


82. Textiles_in_Sport


83. The global textile and clothing industry_ Technological advances and future challenges


84. Theory of Structure and Mechanics of Fibrous Assemblies


85. Thermal Protective Clothing for Firefighters


86. Thermal_and_moisture_transport


87. Understanding and improving the durability of textiles


88. Update on Flame Retardant Textiles _ State of the Art, Environmental Issues and Innovative Solutions


89. Wearable_electronics_and_photonics


90. Woven Composites

Others Book

1. Assessing the environmental impact of textiles and the clothing supply chain


2. Buildings, Clothing and Art


3. ERP_ Tools, Techniques, and Applications for Integrating the Supply Chain


4. Fundamentals of designing for textiles and other end uses


5. Optimizing decision making in the apparel supply chain using artificial intelligence (AI)_ From production to retail


6. Product Design and Factory Development (The Handbook of Manufacturing Engineering, Second Edition) (Volume 1)


7. Structure and Mechanics of Textile Fibre Assemblies


8. Structure_and_Mechanics_of_Textile_fibre assemblies

 

 

TEXTILE BOOKS FREE DONWLOAD

DC Tachometer Generator

DC Tachometer Generator

The DC tachometer generator is a speed measuring device. These are used in Machine tools handling & lifting systems, Paper Manufacturing machines , Textile machines, Glass production lines, Rolling mills, railway industry etc.

The word “Tachometer” is derived from the greek word “Tacho” , which means “speed”. Tachometers are of two types, these are : electrical tachometers & mechanical tachometers.

Electrical tachometers are also known as Tachometer generators. Tachometer generator (or, tachogenerator) is a device that is used for measuring the speed of a shaft or rotating body & converting into a voltage so that it can be measured.

Construction :

In its construction, it has

1.  a permanent magnet,


2.  armature,


3.  commutator,


4.  brushes,


5.  variable resistor


6. a moving coil voltmeter

Schematic Diagram :

Figure 1: Schematic diagram of DC Tachogenerator

The armature of the dc tachometer is kept between a permanent magnetic field. The armature is coupled with the machine whose speed is to be measured.

Now, as the shaft of the machine revolves, the armature of the tachometer revolves with it, in the magnetic field, which produces an EMF.

The commutator collects generated current (i.e. EMF) from the armature & converts the AC EMF to DC EMF. The brushes collect current from the commutator & supplies it to the exernal circuitry of the tachometer (i.e voltmeter & resistor). The EMF induced is measured using a moving coil voltmeter. The moving coil voltmeter has an uniform scale, callibrated in speed directly. So, speed of macine can be measured. 

The EMF generated is proportional to the number of the flux & the speed of the revolving armarture (i.e. the speed of the revolving machine). Now, as the electric field of the permanent magnet is fixed, the EMF generated in this case, is directly proportinal to the speed of the machine.

The variable resistor, connected in series, is used to limit the output current flow to short circuit condition. The polarity of the output voltage indicates the direction of rotation, which is a major advantage of using a DC tachometer generator.

Disadvantages of using a DC tachometer generator are that the commutator & brushes require periodic maintenance & the output is nonlinear.

However, there has been a lot of modifications & advancements in the technology of modern day DC tachometer generators.  It is also evident that with the advent of various modern speed measuring technologies, the use of DC tachometer generators has decreased.

DC Tachometer Generator

Knitting | Knitting Types | Advantages and Disadvantages of Knitting | Properties of Knitting

 Knitting

Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment formation by inter-looping one or one set of yarns. Continuous length of yarn is converted into vertically intermeshed loops either by hand or by machine. The most important parameter of a knitted fabric is loop length which can be varied during knitting by changing machine parameters, process parameters and yarn parameters. The other important parameters of a knitted fabric which are considered for assessing the quality of the fabric are courses per inch, wales per inch, stitch density, GSM and tightness factor.

 Types of knitting:

1. Weft knitting


2. Warp knitting

Weft knitting is where the loops are formed one after another in a weft-ways direction as the fabric is formed. Warp knitting is where a set of warp yarns are simultaneously formed into loops.

 Difference between warp and weft knits:

[table id=20 /]

 Types of weft knitting machines:

1. 
   

   Circular knitting

   
   


2. 
   

   Flat knitting

   
   

 Types of weft knitted structures:

1. Single jersey structure


2. Double jersey structure


3. Double jersey structure:


4. Rib structure


5. Purl structure


6. Interlock structure

 

 

  Needles used in knitting:

1. Bearded needle


2. Latch needle


3. Compound needle

  Yarn preparation for knitting fabric

Knitting process will need cone, not cheese.

1. Because the yarn tension maintain in the knitting will be constant. If using the cheese during the unwinding yarn will be rubbed on cheese surface.so that tension will be vary because of low twist yarn is suitable for knitting.


2. Instead of using the cone unwinding will be very easy.


3. During cone winding, the waxy roller will be essential because the yarn will be contacted with the knitting needles. Either the yarn will damage or the needle will be damaged. 


4. The cone winding machine will be run at slow speed due to the tension variation yarn will not be uniform.


5. If using high speed winding machine cotton combed yarn will be better.


6. Electronic yarn clearer will be used.


7. Separate drive for drum and the package.


8. Pneumatic splicing must be needed.


9. Additive type of tensioner needed, whatever the variation in input tension output tension will be compensated by amontons law principle.


10. Unwinding accelerator or the balloon breaker needed for maintaining the same tension.

  Properties required for knitting:

1. Flexural rigidity: Low flexural rigidity yarn can bend easily


2. Torsional rigidity: When yarns are looped they are subjected to torsion yarns have low torsional rigidity will work better in knitting.

  Knitting fabric properties:

[table id=18 /]

  Other essential properties: woven vs knits

[table id=19 /]

Due to the high permeability,

1. Air can be allowed into the fabric.


2. Very useful in summer.

If knits are permeable, why it is preferred in sweaters for winter garments? 

Because the thickness of the fabric will be more, so that more air will be drape inside the fabric. Air is a poor conductor (thermal insulator), so that air will be heated near to body. So, our body will be warm.

  Advantages of knitting:       

1. Fabric can be produced from minimum number of yarns, even only one yarn.


2. The extensibility and stability of the fabric can be engineered.


3. The desirable compactness of the fabric can be achieved easily.


4. Loop structures are easily distorted under tension in application, which imparts more freedom of movement and comfort the wearer.


5. Wastage of yarn during conversion of yarn into fabric by knitting is negligible.


6. Knitting can produce fabrics which are very much suitable for intimate wears as well as for technical application.


7. Shaping can be done at the time of knitting on the resultant fabric.


8. The number of yarns to be knitted in the same fabric can be varied by selection.


9. Design possibilities will be much higher.

  Disadvantages in knitting:

1. Dimensional stability will be lower than the woven fabric.


2. Glass fabric is very critical to knitting because bending rigidity will be higher. But in the weaving we can produce glass fabric easily.


3. Count range will be low in the knitting machine, but weaving is the versatile machine to produce any count of fabrics.

  Reason for growth of knitting industry:

      Productivity of looms at particular time 

                  [table id=17 /]

      Machine productivity higher.  

      Labour less organised.

      Floor space: Compared to auto loom for the same production

                       Warp knitting         1/10 th

                       Weft knitting          1/8 th

     Power consumption: Compared to auto loom for the same production 1/4 th to 1/5 th will be required.

     Yarn and yarn preparation :

1. Low TPI yarns will be needed for knitting. So that spinning production will be higher.


2. There is no need for warping, sizing and drawing-in processes.


3. Only warp knitting need warping process.

     Time required for getting an order executed is less than weaving.

     Modern knitting machines particularly warp knitting machines can produce various type of technical textiles ( medical textiles, automobile textiles, geotextiles, etc.)

     Computer aided designing and manufacturing in knitting have made it possible to manufacture any desired structure within a short time at reasonable price.

 

Knitting | Knitting Types | Advantages and Disadvantages of Knitting | Properties of Knitting

Knitting | Knitting Types | Advantages and Disadvantages of Knitting | Properties of Knitting